Paddling Magdalena Bay in Baja California Sur, Mexico is an experience you’ll never forget. Think gray whales, abundant bird life and mangroves. Dip. Imagine sand dunes diving straight into deep blue green waters. Dip, dip. Visualize camp set up on a secluded beach. Dip, dip, dip… that paddle and let’s get this kayaking adventure underway!
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Paddling Magdalena Bay
What’s so special about this place? In a word – whales. That’s why most people travel to this remote bay created by a series of low barrier islands blocking the Pacific Ocean waves from crashing onto mainland Baja. Mag Bay – as it’s affectionately known – is one of the main calving lagoons for gray whales.
But that’s not the main reason why we are here so late in the whale-watching season. Word was out that the whales were migrating north already. No, we’re here for the adventure of a kayak trip. Think a little fishing, lots of birdwatching and the promise of a laughter-filled camping trip with friends!
Whales in Magdalena Lagoons
Gray whales arrive in Baja waters sometime in late December to early January. Some go to Ojo de Liebre lagoon near Guerrero Negro. Others drop off in Laguna San Ignacio. By late December the remainder reach the Magdalena Lagoons. Because Mag Bay is further south, the whales arrive later and leave earlier. By late March the whales are heading north again.
That being said, we still saw whale spouts every day of our trip! I cannot imagine how active this area must be in prime whale-watching season with tour boats trying to get close up encounters for their passengers. Self-guided kayak trips like ours are not encouraged during the busy times for this very reason.
Whether you have few distant sightings like we did – or eye-to-eye contact like some some whale watchers have with local guided tours – it’s all pretty amazing, especially since these whales had been hunted to near extinction in the late 1800s. The total population of gray whales has rebounded and now fluctuates somewhere between 22,000 to 32,000.
Learning from the Masters
Our friends have been kayaking off Baja’s coastlines, islands and Mag Bay for decades. We couldn’t ask for better experts.
“Magdalena Lagoons,” they said, “we have to go there with you.”
For years, we heard this – and agreed. But weather and fate (imagine exploring Baja when the pandemic started) were never on our side.
Until this year.
The weather, timing and stars all align with the promise of a full moon to boot!
Get the Gear
It takes a couple days of prep to get everything together. We scout local kayak rental shops in Loreto in search of a double kayak to rent… in vain. Dang! Determined to make this work, we decide to use our inflatable and a single from our pals.
My advice: keep looking for a double.
Our solution worked for these protected waters with a short crossing from mainland to island, but it was also a lot of work. A 3-hour trip took us closer to 5 hours. We were fortunate the winds weren’t strong.
Tents, sleeping bags and clothes are loaded in drybags. Gallons of fresh water stowed. Folding table and chairs strapped in. Food bags and bevvies stashed away from the sun’s heat. Fishing rods are set with lures. And last, but not least, a folding porta-potty is added on top.
Exploring Magdalena Bay by Kayak
PFDs and paddling gloves on, we head out from the port after spending a restful night at Alex’s House (see pre-trip accommodation recommendation below) in the tiny town of Puerto Adolfo López Mateos – often referred to as simply López Mateos.
Brown pelicans and ospreys soar overhead. On the shore, a lone male cardinal shot away in a streak of crimson. Scrub jays squawk from the tips of the mangroves.
The mangroves dip in and out as we paddle along close to shore – with some longer side channels begging for further exploration. Great blue herons and egrets perched on mudflats as the tide continues to move out – making paddling against the current with a light wind in our face feel a little like kayaking against the current in a slow-flowing river.
Tip: check tide tables for best time to head out!
Splash! A pelican dives in the water just a couple feet ahead of our friends’ double kayak. Cormorants fly overhead and binoculars focus on loons in the distance.
Across the narrow bay, we can see the low sand dunes of Isla Magdalena. Coming up in the distance is a massive ship – well, massive compared to us. It’s the National Geographic tour boat. Self-catered kayakers and luxury cruisers pass side by side in the Magdalena Lagoons.
There’s room for both in this beautiful big bay.
Setting Up Camp
After crossing from the mangrove shore to the sand dune island, we step out of the boats for a break. Brad finds it faster to walk on the sand and pull the inflatable for a bit than fight the current and the breeze.
“Not far now,” we hear.
The quiet little camp is tucked in a small bay on Magdalena Island – just under 13 km (8 mi) from López Mateos. There are no mangroves nearby – which means fewer insects. Due to the little crab exoskeleton marking the path we name it Crab Corner Camp.
We beat a path in the soft sand from shore to a flat spot above highest tide and tucked among vegetated dunes.
Playing in the Wind
Brad and I opt to pitch our tent up on a small knoll. We gather a few pieces of the mangrove sticks lying around and dig down to create deadman anchors for the tent tiedowns – as regular pegs are a joke in the deep sand. Turns out our buried stick anchors are just as useless.
And again, the tent is flying like a kite.
In contrast, Claudette is busy setting up their tent in a protected spot using bags filled with sand as anchors. Watch and learn, watch and learn. In the first place, we need to move down off the knoll. We tie one side of our tent to a kayak, using a combination of leftover bags and stick anchors for the other.
At last, success!
Feeding the Soul
Randy and Claudette’s approach to meal-planning is simple – pack what goes with the fish meal we’re going to be having each night! Lots of tomatoes, jalapeños, garlic, onions, peppers, limes, spices, breading, pasta, tomato sauce, rice and so on.
It’s all so different from our meal planning for paddle trips – and much simpler… if you catch fish. If not… well, that did happen to them on one adventure with a different set of friends but that’s another story.
For now, it’s time to catch some supper. It pays to travel with an avid angler who also loves to cook – thanks Randy! Sand bass and pompano became Fish Veracruz. It’s dinner by headlamp. Heavy dew is already descending. Sticky pots are scrubbed with sand and dishes are washed with seawater and sea soap. Food is stored in kayak holds to keep wily coyotes at bay.
Before 9 p.m. it’s lights out for all.
A Note About Wily Coyote
The first morning we awake to the shadow of a coyote passing by our tent. Our portapotty is upended. Luckily, it’s still empty.
On the second morning we wake up to our friends yelling at two coyotes to get out of camp. Again, the portapotty is flipped. Sand added on top of each deposit has saved the day. Anchors are made to keep it firmly in place.
By the third day, we are awake before the sun rises. Three coyotes have yanked the makeshift cover off the single kayak and are bounding across the dunes with the plastic bag like they’ve hit the jackpot. One paddling shoe is missing – but luckily found again in the dunes.
There are permanent fish camps further down Magdalena Island. Coyotes are used to humans. Keeping everything locked in kayak cockpits overnight is essential – even water bottles.
Wash, Rinse & Repeat
Each day begins with coffee on a high dune watching for whale spouts with binos.
“There’s one at 5 o’clock!”
Fresh pears, granola and yogurt one morning and scrambled eggs with onion, poblano and tomatoes on tortillas with strips of precooked bacon the next.
Snack lunches are packed. First day we wander to the wild Pacific Ocean side – an adventure filled with sand hummocks, a horned lark flitting around the dunes, coyote tracks, blooming succulents, scallop shells, whale bones, sand dollars, turtle shells, a dolphin skull and wooden crates washed up on shore.
We’re back in time for dinner to be caught and prepped… mmmm….fried sand bass and fresh scallops in butter and garlic with cucumber salad and couscous.
Another day it’s a paddle across the bay to the mangroves for spectacular fishing. On tonight’s menus is breaded broomtail grouper on pasta with tomato veggie sauce.
Happy hour is up on the high dune, watching pelicans gather on “Pelican Point” while still scanning the bay for cow and calf whale spouts.
One could get used to this way of life!
Looking for more Baja adventures? Check out the first in a 3-part post on Baja RV Travel here!
When You Go
It’s about a 2-hour drive southwest from Loreto to López Mateos.
You may not have the opportunity to travel with our friends in the Magdalena Lagoons but there are several companies leading guided adventures in the Mag Bay. Check out Sea Kayak Adventures or Mar Y Aventuras.
We spent the night before our paddle staying at Alex’s House – one of the rental properties owned by Cheri King of López Charters. Highly recommend staying in town to get an early start on departure day.
Would you like to paddle in Mag Bay? Let us know in the comments below!
Looking for more active things to do in Mexico? Check out this roundup post!
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