Nisutlin River Canoe Trip | Yukon

A Nisutlin River canoe trip with a dash of adventure, good food, family, and friends – who could ask for anything more? Read on for tips on paddling this Yukon river in northern Canada yourself – with a couple canoe camping recipes included!

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Planning a Nisutlin River canoe trip

Nisutlin is a Tlingit word meaning “quiet waters.”

It wasn’t on our radar until our friends asked, “have you ever heard of the Nisutlin?”

Tucked up in the northwest corner of this vast country we call Canada, the Yukon has countless rivers to paddle. The Nisutlin River – also known as the Nalasin River – is found in the southwest corner of the territory. It travels south, starting in the Yukon’s Pelly Mountains and flowing into Teslin Lake. 

The Nisutlin is surrounded by countless wetlands and spruce forests. It’s the perfect habitat for migratory birds and waterfowl, beaver, moose, wolf and bear.

There are two options for a Nisutlin River canoe trip: 1) paddle 137 kilometres (85mi) on the river from the Nisutlin River recreation site launch, or 2) adding more distance by started at Rose River for 190 km (118 mi). 

You can choose to take a fully guided trip, a self-guided trip with rental gear and transportation, or do it all on your own – which means arranging all your own paddling and camping gear, food, and vehicle shuttles.

We picked the last option when the second question our friends asked was, “would you want to canoe the Nisutlin River with us?”

Adventure on!

We were planning a trip down the Yukon River in August. It didn’t take much to convince us to pivot. When it comes to paddling trips – whether in Alberta, British Columbia, Utah, or Arizona – any adventure is a good one! 

Canoeing adventures make for great stories – even when things go a little sideways
like they did in “Going Green in Red Rock Country” and “Misery on the Missouri!”
Read these mini-stories and more in our ebook,
“I’ll Never Pee in the Woods Again: And Other Tall but TRUE Travel Misadventures.” 

Before we knew it, we were busy planning our Nisutlin River canoe trip. We checked the weather, settled on dates, discussed group gear – from spare paddles, first aid kits, and satellite messengers (see below) to coolers, bug tent, and bear bins.

One final planning discussion was meals – who was going to do which meal? Group dinners were divvied up evenly among the couples. Each pair were also responsible for packing for their own breakfasts and lunches. 

Our friends’ family agreed to help with shuttling vehicles from the launch on the Canol Road to the take out at Teslin (saving us close to four hours). They also offered to provide nightly weather forecasts via satellite messenger while we on the river. 

That’s it – I think we’re good to go.

Accessing the Nisutlin River canoe trip from the Canol Road 

The Canol Road was built in 1943 as a supply road by the American army at the start of WWII. It runs alongside the short-lived Canadian Oil (Canol) pipeline. 

The North Canol runs 232 km (144 mi) from Ross River to Macmillan Pass between the Yukon and the Northwest Territories. The South Canol – which we drove to access our put in point at the Nisutlin River campground at km 67.5 (42 mi) – extends 230 km (143 mi) from Johnsons Crossing to the Ross River.

Day 1: From Whitehorse to the paddle

Up before 6:00 am, coffee made, cooler packed, last-minute gear stowed, and in car by 6:40 am.  Hard rain all night and still coming down. Not much sleep worrying about dismal weather, but we’re on the road, stopping in Whitehorse to pick up our friends and drop off extra keys for the shuttle. 

After topping up with gas, we’re on the road for the two-hour drive towards Johnson’s crossing with a short stop for cinnamon buns. The rain has stopped. Minutes later we’re on the Canol Road and believe it or not, there is dust from the truck ahead! 

About an hour and fifteen minutes later – travel is slow on the Canol Road – we reached the Nisutlin River recreation site with pit toilet, garbage can, picnic table, and launch site. Canoeists can camp here as well if you want to get an earlier start, but we were happy with our 11:30 a.m. launch. 

Surprisingly, the river took off at a good clip in this section of the river. It was a fun, easy 25 km (16 mi) paddle to camp #1. There were a few spits of rain and weather was on the cool side, but compared to what we had woken up to, the weather was perfect.  

We camped on a wide gravel and sand bar, spreading out 3 tents with plenty of space between all of us and the kitchen area. After a hearty bowl of tortilla soup, we gathered round the campfire, sharing stories and roasting banana boats. 

Bellies full and bodies tired, we were in our tents by 10:00 pm, jotting a few notes in the journal before slipping off to sleep to dream of Robert Service…

“There’s a land where the mountains are nameless,
And the rivers all run God knows where…”

Bonus Nisutlin River paddling trip recipe: Tortilla Soup  

• 1-2 tbsp olive oil or butter
• 2-3 large chicken breasts (diced, cooked and frozen at home)
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1 large tin roasted tomatoes
• 1 tin green chiles and tomatoes
• 1/2 jalapeño pepper, diced
• 1 small red onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, diced
• Tex Mex spice mix and salt/pepper to taste

Sauté garlic and onion in a little olive oil or butter. Add rest of ingredients to soup pot and simmer until thoroughly heated.

• 3-4 avocados, diced
• 1/2 bag tortilla chips
• 1/2 block Monterey Jack cheese, shredded

To serve, layer bowls with avocado, crushed tortilla chips, and cheese. Spoon hot soup on top and enjoy! 

(Note: All recipes in this post feed 6)

Day 2: Canoeing the Nisutlin

Sunshine with a forecast of scattered clouds in the afternoon – we’ll take it! Fueling up on coffee and porridge, we pack up camp and are on the river by 9:00 am. With highs around 16 C (60 F), it’s perfect for a long day of paddling around the many bends in the river. 

White-winged crossbills and squirrels chatter in the spruce trees lining the riverbank as we float by. The first grayling is caught – and released while debating whether we should have kept at least one fish for an appetizer. A lone loon paddles off ahead before taking off with its quintessentially Canadian call.

With fewer fast sections and a lot of slower parts, today’s close to 40 km paddle (24 mi) feels long. We passed one canoe group of two European tourists setting up camp along the bank. They would be the only people we see beyond our party for the rest of the trip! Unused muscles protest as we keep going.

Pulling out at a long, low water camp, we take time to admire massive moose and wolf tracks on the shore before quickly setting up camp and making Red Thai Chicken curry for dinner, pulling out homemade raspberry lemon loaf for dessert. 

No fire tonight; we all agree it’s an early night.

Bonus paddling trip recipe #2: Quick Red Thai Chicken Curry

• 1 pkg Uncle Ben’s 10 min Jasmine Rice
• 3 chicken breasts (diced, cooked and frozen at home)
• 1 large red onion, diced
• 1 -2 large red peppers, diced
• 1 large yellow pepper, diced
• 1 zucchini, diced (optional)
• 2-3 Tbsp Thai Kitchen Red Curry paste
• 1 pkg coconut milk powder (prepare according to package instructions)
• Naan bread
• Butter (if desired)

Cook rice according to package instructions. Sauté onion and add curry paste and coconut milk. Add in peppers and chicken and simmer until peppers cooked to taste. Heat naan in foil over stove. Serve curry over rice with a side of warm naan bread. Enjoy!

Day 3: Paddle on

Day dawns with fog on the river and frost on tents. It’s a slower pack up as we drape our tent fly over a low willow to dry. Coffees in hand, we gather for a group discussion about the day’s paddle before taking off.

Winds pick up, first gusting in our faces and then at our backs as we round corner after corner. With steady paddling we manage to keep our pace to about 6 km/hr (3.7 mph). There’s little time for fishing and only a short lunch break before carrying on. 

We pass lots of evidence of high-water floods – from log jams on old channels to fresh slumping riverside. Wall tent frames and drying racks pop up along the shore with an occasional walled cabin. A group of five trumpeter swans fly off ahead downstream as we round another corner. Several families of geese watch warily as we pass. Kingfisher pairs fly ahead, leading the way down the lazy river lined with ripening cranberries.

We started paddling at 8:55 am and by 4:00 pm were pulling out at the popular Sandy Camp. Another roughly 37 km (23 mi) under our paddles.

Today’s temps in low 20s (low 70s Fahrenheit) convinced us to take a dip in the river for a quick rinse. The Yukoners plunge right in. We barely walk up to our waists!

Pre-cooked lentil chicken curry and naan is on the menu for dinner. Time for a short walk around the highwater channel, viewing tracks on tracks – a few signs of black bear, lots of moose, and some wolf.

Another day is done, another campfire with cookies and tea, and it’s time to hit the hay.

Day 4: The long and winding river

It’s a long slow paddle on an almost lake-like wide river channel. The river bottom is now completely covered with sand. There are more swans, geese, chickadees calling, gray jays, yellow warblers, a few kingfishers, osprey, bald eagles, and ravens.

We pull over at Wolf River. The guys try a couple of casts, but it seems we’re past the good grayling fishing sections. 

Loading up, we happily zip along the last 7 km (4.3 mi) as the river picks up with minor riffles. We pass several cabins and one motorboat at a tent camp with multiple solar panels and what looks like fish fence that can be put across entire river. 

Paddling out to mouth of lake, we discover mud flats, not great camping spots but with a little more effort end up at a cozy location – about 36 km (22 mi) from our previous camp. It leaves us with only 10 km (6 mi) to takeout tomorrow. 

After a filling dinner of Mediterranean stew cheese buns and double chocolate pecan walnut cookies for dessert, we pull out the dice for a game and savor the evening light and distant mountain views while snugly circled in the bug tent. 

“I’ve watched the big, husky sun wallow
In crimson and gold, and grow dim,
Till the moon set the pearly peaks gleaming,
And the stars tumbled out, neck and crop;
And I’ve thought that I surely was dreaming,
With the peace o’ the world piled on top.”
– Robert W. Service

Bonus trip recipe #3: Mediterranean Stew

At home:

• 1 pkg sausage (slice, cook, and freeze)
• 2 chicken breasts (dice, cook, and freeze)

At camp in large pot, sauté:

• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, diced
• 1/2 tbsp butter

Add:

• 2 c chicken broth 
• 2 tin sliced potatoes
• 1 large tin roasted tomatoes
• Chicken and sausage
• Spices (Italian mix, 2 bay leaves, salt/pepper to taste)

Let simmer until flavours blended and you are ready to eat. Serve with sourdough bread or buns. Enjoy!

Day 5: Wrapping up our Nisutlin River canoe trip

Knowing the forecast for almost no wind, we take our time in the morning enjoying a celebratory last day group canoe camping breakfast of potato pancakes (full of bacon, eggs, kale and topped with salsa).

It’s a short and easy paddle to the takeout – in fact, we can see the Teslin bridge as soon as we round the corner. There are no other boats – power or self-propelled – out on the lake. We enjoy the light tail wind. An immature bald eagle flies overhead. 

Before we know it, we’re passing the new bridge construction and listening to the sound of vehicles cross the old metal grate bridge. Three large fishing boats take off down the lake. Ahhh, civilization means the trip is done. It’s a little sad. Our peaceful getaway is done.

Total river distance paddled: 137 km (85 mi)
Total lake distance paddled: 11 km (7 mi)

Celebratory last day canoeing breakfast recipe: Potato Pancakes

• 1 pkg instant potatoes
• 1/2 pkg shredded instant potatoes
• 8 tbsp powdered eggs
• 1/4 c dried onion
• 1/4 c kale chips crushed
• 2 pkg precooked bacon (cut fine)
• Add pepper to taste

Mix in bowl with water to soft but not runny consistency. Fry like pancakes. Top with salsa (dehydrated for long trips). Enjoy!

When you go 

In hindsight, if we did the trip again, we’d plan for 7 days on the river – instead of 5 – to give more time for fishing and exploring and floating down the lazy river. 

For a map of the Nisutlin River, check out Go Trekkers for their Nisutlin canoe route.

If you are not based in the Yukon and plan on a making a quick trip north just for the paddle, the best option for flying into Whitehorse for a paddle trip is via Air North because they allow two checked 22.7 kg (50 lb) bags per person at no additional cost. It’s perfect for personal canoe and camping gear. No sponsorship here, we just love this airline!

While we were able to use some of our daughter and son-in-law’s gear and borrow a canoe from their friends, you can pick up a rental package from companies such as Up North Adventures. 

Check current weather forecasts before and during your trip to ensure the best adventure possible. We use Environment Canada.

And be sure to keep track of your bucket list paddling adventures with our easy-to-use paddling journal and planner available on Etsy!

For a good selection of camping and canoeing gear, check out our standby – Mountain Equipment Company (MEC). Up to 60% off on selected items for a limited time, click on image to learn more.