We found Christmas in Turkey. Proof in the pudding? Church frescoes painted with scenes of the nativity and statues of jolly ol’ St. Nick himself. Who knew a trip to Turkey would surprise us with a journey into the ancient origins of this favorite time of the year? This is the final post in our Blogmas series of 12 days of inspiring and entertaining travel adventures – and I think we saved the best for last!
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Finding Christmas in Turkey
It’s been over a decade since we originally travelled to Turkey, but there are some travel stories that are timeless. This is one of them. Join us for an adventure that had a life all of its own – a surprisingly perfect discovery of Christmas past.
The Church Beneath the Tree
More than 700 kilometres (435 mi) southeast of Istanbul, the Cappadocia region is a maze of volcanic rock formations. One such formation is the 100-metre (328 ft) deep Ihlara Valley.
Around the 4th century CE, priests and monks began carving churches and dwellings into the soft stone of the valley walls. There are over 100 churches and thousands of rock caverns in the 14-kilometre (8.7 mi) long valley.
Standing on the lip of this valley, our guide Kasim explained the cultural history of the short, 3-kilometre (1.8 mi) section would be walking. My eyes are drawn to the bell-shaped opening of a cavern on the opposite wall.
Heading down the metal stairs towards the Melendiz River, we waited patiently for our turn to enter the Ağaçaltı Kilise – the Church Beneath the Tree – also known as the Daniel and the Lion Church.
We Three Kings
Like most of the rock-carved churches of the time, it is designed in a cruciform – cross-shaped – plan. The central section has a dome with high drums – cylindrical walls – and the cross arms are made from tunnel vaults.
Painted frescoes decorated in reds, greens, and yellows date from the 9th to 11th centuries CE. Flowers, rosettes, and checkerboard patterns reflect easter influences around scenes of religious importance.
On to Myra
From central Turkey and Cappadocia, we flew south to the Mediterranean, landing in Antalya. The focus of this leg of the trip was exploring archaeological sites along the Lycian Way – a 500-kilometre (310 mi) long hiking path.
As we turned off the highway in Demre heading towards Myra, I knew we’d have to make a detour to visit one special church.
A Bishop, a Saint, and Santa Claus
In mid-day heat, passing pomegranate and orange orchards, we hadn’t set out to search for Christmas in Turkey, but this was the church of the Bishop of Myra – also known as Saint Nicholas or today more commonly called Santa Claus.
As a matter of fact, images of the jolly fellow in the white-trimmed red suit overflow from every gift shop and adorning restaurant signs along the pedestrian mall on the short block leading to the church.
Born in the ancient Lycian port of Patara in the 4th century CE, the Bishop of Myra gained a reputation for performing miracles. He is the protector of sailors and travellers in addition to children and the poor.
In the late 12th or early 13th century CE, a devastating flood filled the church and the northern annexes with muddy floodwater and soil. Due to that event, today’s city is about six metres (19.7 ft) above the ground level of the church.
Inside the church, the opus sectile pavement draws our eyes to the floor beneath our feet. The marble floor is a colorful mosaic with circles inside squares. Each stone is cut into different sizes to form patterns.
Stepping up into the burial chamber on the left, our gaze turns skyward to the 12 century CE Byzantine paintings depicting more than a dozen scenes from the life of St. Nicholas.
Finding Holiday Spirit in Turkey… or Wherever You Are!
In the Middle Ages, Myra was an important port visited by merchant ships and by pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem. All stopped to worship at the church of St. Nicholas.
On December 6th – the day before his death – many people still celebrate St. Nicholas Day.
While we may not have travelled to Turkey with the intent of finding Christmas, it definitely found us.
However you celebrate, and wherever you are, we wish you happy holidays. I hope that the upcoming new year finds you blessed with travel, adventure, and discovery!
Note: this article was originally published in print in the Vancouver Courier,
December 19, 2014.
In case you missed any, here are the other 11 Blogmas travel adventures shared this month:
- Hiking Caminito del Rey (Spain)
- Exploring Cathedral Grove State Park (Nevada)
- Mountain Biking on the Arizona Trail (USA)
- Kayaking Adventure on the Sea of Cortez (Baja, Mexico)
- Exploring Orkney Islands Archaeological Sites (Scotland)
- Hiking Mt. Wrightson (Arizona)
- A Haida Gwaii Trip Planner (BC, Canada)
- Hiking to Machu Picchu (Peru)
- Discovering Roman Ruins in Conimbriga (Portugal)
- One Day in Mesa Verde National Park (Colorado)
- Hiking in the Crowsnest Pass: The Promised Land (Alberta)
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