It’s a tragic tale of love and loss and times forgotten; it’s the timeless saga of renewal and rejuvenation. This is story of Besh-Ba-Gowah in Globe, Arizona – and the work of one focused amateur archaeologist by the name of Irene Vickrey. Join us for a peek into the past as we explore Besh-Ba-Gowah Museum and Archaeological Park and the stories it holds within.
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What and where is the Besh-Ba-Gowah?
Besh-Ba-Gowah Museum and Archaeological Park is a captivating historical site located in Globe, Arizona. It sits in the foothills of the Pinal Mountains in Gila County, about an hour and half drive east of Phoenix.
This unique museum offers visitors a glimpse into the lives of the Salado people, who lived in the area over 700 years ago. Globe is a small town with rich copper mining roots, but its archaeological treasure lies in the ancient ruins preserved at Besh-Ba-Gowah.
While visitors can explore reconstructed ancient dwellings and learn about the pre-Columbian cultures that shaped the region, the tale that truly captured my attention was that of one Irene Vickrey.
This is the story of the Salado culture, the growth of the “place of metal” known as “Besh-Ba-Gowah” starting a thousand years ago, abandonment in the 15th century, and rediscovery and rejuvenation initiated through the tireless – if short-lived – efforts of a girl from Illinois.
Besh-Ba-Gowah History
The Salado culture emerged around 1250 CE. It was a blended culture with influences from Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi), Mogollon, and Hohokam. They lived in the upper reaches of the Salt River. The term Salado comes from the Spanish name, Rio Salado or Salt River.
One of the first small Salado communities overlooks a portion of Salt River that is now Roosevelt Lake. The Tonto Basin at the peak of the Salado culture may have included up to 10,000 people. Besh-Ba-Gowah in today’s Globe, AZ, was one of the larger Salado communities.
The site’s archaeological significance was first recognized in the 1930s. Local efforts, along with support from the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), led to the first formal excavations. The excavations revealed well-preserved rooms, artifacts, and pottery, shedding light on the daily life of the Salado – thanks in no small part to the dedicated efforts of Irene Vickrey.
Archaeologist Irene Vickrey
She was born Luella Irene Singleton on April 4, 1910, in Hume, Illinois. Irene attended the University of Indiana for several years taking pre-law and archaeology courses. She came west because she thought the climate would help lifelong lung and respiratory issues.
Arriving in Globe in 1930, Irene worked as a legal stenographer, before marrying a schoolteacher, Parke E. Vickrey. Although she was 21 and he was 45, the couple shared an interest in archaeology. They spent a few summers working on dig sites alongside archaeologists Byron Cumming and Emil Haury.
In 1935, Works Project Administration (WPA) funding allowed for excavation of ruins just south of Globe. Haury appointed Irene to head the Globe project – but even though she was officially in charge, married women could not hold government jobs. Federal policy dictated that men needed the work to support their families more than women during the Depression. It didn’t stop Irene – her title simply changed from foreman to sponsor supervisor.
She named the site Besh-Ba-Gowah – a place of metal. From 1935 to 1940, an astonishing 200 rooms and 350 burial sites were excavated under Irene’s supervision.
In 1940, WPA funding was received to build a museum on the site. Irene became curator of the museum project. The following year, Irene directed a community pageant illustrating life in a Salado village. “Last Days of Besh-Ba-Gowah” was a hit. It was performed annually for years to follow with all the proceeds going to the Gila County Archaeology Society.
Years of digging in the dirt on top of lung and respiratory issues finally caught up with Irene on January 19th, 1946. She was 35 years old. The archaeologist is buried less than 2 ½ miles (4 km) away from her beloved Besh-Ba-Gowah in a masonic plot at the old Globe cemetery.
Love finding stories in the past? Be sure to check out the saga of King Usery in Usery Mountain Regional Park or story of the Clark Family and their connection to the Copper Museum in Clarkdale.
Visiting Besh-Ba-Gowah Museum and Archaeological Park
We found out about Irene’s story by visiting the Besh-Ba-Gowah Museum and Archaeological Park – but there is so much more to discover. The museum was established to preserve the archaeological site and educate the public about the region’s history.
When you visit, start by watching the introductory film in the museum. Wander through the exhibits – many of the artifacts you see were excavated from the site by Irene and her workers.
Take a walk outside through the archaeological park and its reconstructed buildings – some with original stonework still visible. Interpretive signs along the way provide context about the different rooms, their purposes, and building techniques used by the Salado.
You could see everything in a quick hour but, if you’re like me, you’ll want to take your time. Imagine being Irene, in her glory days of excavation. Step back even further and imagine being the Salado people in the glory days of their pueblo village life.
Take time to peek into the past from the present and listen.
What stories capture your attention?
Find the story that speaks to you at any one of these 50 Unforgettable, Off-the-Beaten Path Cultural Sites in Arizona!
When you go
Besh-Ba-Gowah Museum is open year-round, with varying hours depending on the season. Located at 1324 S. Jesse Hayes Rd, Globe, AZ, it is 90 miles (145 km) east of Phoenix or just over 59 mi/95 km from Lost Dutchman State Park in Apache Junction via US-60 W.
The museum offers discounts off the already low $5 entrance fees for seniors and children. There is good RV parking just outside the grounds. We camped at Roosevelt Lake and the Windy Hill Campground, less than an hour away.
Looks like a place we should check out Great story to spark interest. Thanks
So many places in Arizona like this that are just ever so slightly off the beaten track! Yes, you would love it all.